Alpine Waxing Instructions
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Fast Skis and Fast Skiing
Waxing your skis not only improves performance but it also protects the bases and makes your skis last longer. To help out with waxing, Fast Wax has provided easy-to-follow waxing instructions and videos for all types of skiers, from recreational skiing to racing.
So.... Before we start edge tuning and waxing lets look at what makes for Fast Skis and Fast Skiing.
How's the training going?Skiing is a technique driven sport, having good technique is a must for good skiing. Even the top competitive skiers continue to attend training classes, technique seminars, and on snow coaching sessions; especially to start the season.
Do your Skis and Boots fit correctly?Boots that are worn out or do not fit correctly will make ski control difficult. Tip: Purchase the best fitting boots and liners, try different brands as they are all fit slightly different.
How are your Edge Tuning Skills?Like good skiing, edge tuning and waxing takes practice. If you are not skilled in ski tuning take your skis to a local shop for help or attend a edge tuning / waxing clinic.
How are your Waxing Skills?
Waxing not only makes the ski fast, it also improves how the ski turns and handles. Waxing also protects the base from wear.
Ski Tuning and Waxing Myth Buster
Here are few things that I see and hear that need to be avoided
- "Save money and buy a cheap Iron." Do not do this. A cheap iron does not have the temperature control required to wax skis. Think about it, new skis can cost up to $1000 don't risk the skis to save a few dollars on an iron.
- "Buy cheap hardware store edge files." Again, the cheap files are not hard enough to work properly on skis. Ski edges require a chrome hardened file and the preferred tool is the diamond file. The cost difference to do it right is very small.
- Do not use wax remover to clean your skis. Use wax remover to clean your tools. Skis become fast over time with multiple layers of wax. Wax removers take the wax out of the ski and drys out the bases. Use the hot scrape method of cleaning skis with a soft wax. This cleans the ski by adding wax to the ski base rather than removing wax.
Alpine Edge Tuning and Waxing Recreational
Place the ski on the Wax Bench and inspect the base and edges. If a base is damaged take the ski to your local shop for inspection and possible repair.
Next: Slide you fingers gently down the edges and inspect for any burrs. Use a shop stone to polish out any edge burrs.
Tip: This step is important as an edge burr can scratch the iron and that can be transferred to the ski base.
Ski PolishingSet your ski on edge with the base facing out. Again, use the shop stone to polish out any burs from the ski edge.
Stand the ski on edge with the ski base facing out and file the side edge. For most recreational skiers this is set between 1 and 2 degrees.
Side AngleFile the side angle, use either a chrome hardened file or a medium to coarse Moonstone diamond file “Red or Yellow”. When using the diamond files also use an edge tuning solution.
- Polish the side angle with a medium to fine diamond file.
- Polish the base edge.
- Repeat and polish the side edge one more time.
- Followed with a easy polish of the base edge using a gummy stone.
Remove the Burrs
Polish the base edge with a gummy stone as the final step, go very lightly, just to remove the light burr from the edge for a fast smooth edge. You should be able to slide your fingers down the ski edge and feel a very smooth sharp edge.
You are now ready to wax.
Waxing for recreational skiing
- Always work the ski from the tip to the tail never in the reverse direction. Tip: Wear gloves to protect your hands from the ski edges.
- Brush out the ski base with the Fast Wax Stainless Steel Brush.
- Melt wax for the current conditions.
- Iron in from tip to tail.
- Allow the ski to cool to room temperature (1/2 hour) before scraping.
- Scrape with a plastic scraper.
- Brush out with the Fast Wax Superfine SS Brush 4 to 5 repeats.
- Follow with the Fast Wax Horsehair Brush and Nylon Polishing Brush.
- Ready to ski!
Edge Tuning for Racing
Ski InspectionImmediately after racing place the ski on the Wax Bench and inspect the base and edges. Slide you fingers gently down the edges and inspect for any burrs. Polish out any burrs with a shop stone. Tip: This step is important as an edge burr can scratch the iron and that can be transferred to the ski base, it can also develop a rust area.
Ski PolishingSet your ski on edge with the base facing out. Again, use the shop stone to remove any burrs from the ski edge.
Base TuningLay the ski on the bench, check and file the base angle, for most skiers the edge is set between 1/2 and 1 degree. There are 2 option available here, if you do multiple skis the adjustable tools works very well. For a set base angle the fixed tool is an excellent option.
Relieve the BaseNext turn the ski on edge and inspect the side edge, if necessary relieve the base so the side edge can be properly tuned. The metal edge should protrude slightly from the ski base.
Side EdgeSet the ski on edge with the ski base facing out, and file the Side Edge using a fixed side edge guide. For most racing skis this is set between 2 and 3 degrees.
Polishing the Side AngleStart with the medium to coarse Moonstone diamond file “Red or Yellow” and follow-up with a fine diamond file “White”. For that extra performance go to the ceramic hones, use a medium and fine hone. Note: When using the diamond and ceramic files also use an edge tuning solution.
- Polish the side angle.
- Repeat and polish the side edge one more time.
- Followed with an easy polish of the base edge using a gummy stone.
Removing BurrsFor this final step with the gummy stone, go very lightly to remove the burr from the edge for a fast smooth ski. The ski edge should feel very smooth when competed.
Brush out the skiBrush the ski from tip to tail using the Fast Wax Super Fine Stainless Steel brush.
Hot Wax ProcessUsing a digital ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep wax onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail. The wax will act as an insulator, a generous layer helps keep the iron off the skis base, use about one drip every 1/2 inch, more if you are inexperienced. When ironing in the wax, draw the iron down the ski holding a molten bead of wax about 2 to 3 inches behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If necessary a second pass can pick up any places that are missed.
Scraping off the WaxLet the ski cool slowly to room temperature before scraping the base. Scrape the wax off, using short easy strokes again working from tip to tail, until all the wax is removed. (Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it sharp. A scraper sharpener makes it easy, just give the scraper a few passes each time before scraping.
Brushing out the skiUse the Fast Wax Superfine SS brush, followed with the Fast Wax Horse Hair brush, and polish with the Fast Wax black nylon brush.
Wax SystemThe Fast wax system is to layer up the ski with wax, starting with Base Prep and go to an under layer of Low Fluoro or High Fluoro waxes depending on conditions. The layering of the wax, conditions the ski base to the snow type. Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 using the race waxes.
Flite Speed AdditiveFor maximum speed, top coat with Flite11 100% Fluoro speed additive (next step).
- 1 to 2 Layers Base Prep
- 1 to 2 Layer of HSLF Blue
- 2 Layers of HSF-20 Tan
- Flite 11 Cold Ironed in using the Fast Wax Base Saver.
Flite Application using the Fast Wax Base Saver
The Fast Wax Base Saver is used under the iron, when applying Flite Fluoro top coats, for a more efficient and effective wax application. The base saver will also prevent iron burn. Here is how it works... The soft Teflon surface backed by the cushioning pad, presses the Fluoro top coats into the ski structure using high pressure and lower heat for faster more durable application. Very new and unique process.
- Make sure the ski base is complete brushed out before starting and your iron surface is clear.
- Apply the Fast Wax Flite Fluoro top coat to the ski, either sprinkle the powder on the ski or rub the block on the ski base to get an even application of the wax.
- Lightly cork in the Flite with the Speed Block (ski surface should be evenly coated and a light gray color) Tip: It is easier to add several light layer and cork in each layer rather than working with one heavy layer.
- Place the Base Saver on the ski (Teflon, tan shiny side down).
- Place the iron on the Base Saver, using a moderate iron temperature of 260°F to 275°F or 126°C to 135°C.
- Absolute Key Step. Place both hands on the iron and press down hard on the iron.
- In one pass, move the iron in a slow steady speed down the ski and watch to make sure the top coat is pressed into the ski base structure. Hold the back side of the Base Saver against the iron to keep it in place under the iron.
- Let the ski cool for 1/2 hour, then brush out the ski with Fast Wax Horsehair Brush.
- Be amazed at how little wax is removed from the ski base and how fast your skis are.
Alpine Waxing With Slick Pro
Slick Pro gives the performance of a Hot Melt wax, with the ease of a Paste Wax.
- Rub on Slick Pro using the enclosed foam applicator
- Let dry for 3 to 5 minutes
- Buff in with the Speed Block
- Brush out with a horse hair brush and Ski
- For added durability repeat 1 to 4 for a second coat
- Slick Pro is a great wax to have on hand at the race site when weather and snow conditions are changing...
- Skis can easily be re-wax in minutes.
- Saves time when traveling,
- Is a great training wax during the week.
- Great for families with multiple skiers --Change the wax on every one's skis in just a few minutes.
Alpine Waxing Iron Temperature Settings
Waxing Iron Temperatures are a guideline as each iron may vary slightly. Test the wax on the iron before applying the iron to the ski.
|Wax||Setting Low||Setting High|
|Base Prep, Fluoro Base Prep
HS 40 Yellow
HSLF 40 Yellow
HSF 40 Bronze
|Digital Iron 250 F or 121C
Standard Dial Iron 5 to 6 Medium
|Digital Iron 265 F or 130 C
Standard Dial Iron 5 to 6 Medium
|HS 30 Red
HSLF 30 Red
HSF 30 Salmon
|Digital Iron 260 F 0r 127 C Standard Dial Iron 6 to 7 Medium||Digital Iron 275 F or 135 C
Standard Dial Iron 6 to 7 Medium
|HS 20 Blue
HSLF 20 Blue
HSF 20 Tan
|Digital Iron 265 F or 130 C Standard Dial Iron 6 to 8 Medium||Digital Iron 280 F or 140
Standard Dial Iron 6 to 8 Medium
|HS 10 Teal
HSLF 10 Teal
HSF 10 Green
HS - 0 White
HSLF - 0 White
|Digital Iron 275 F or 135 C Standard Dial Iron 7 to 8.5 Medium||Digital Iron 290 F or 145 C
Standard Dial Iron 7 to 8.5 Medium