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Link to Printable Waxing Recommendations for Daily Skiing

HS-0 Series Temp -20 to 10 F

HS-10 Series Temp -5 to 15 F

HS-20 Series Temp 12 to 28 F

HS-30 Series Temp 22 to 32 F

HS-40 Series Temp 30 to 50 F

Link to Printable Waxing Manual - Print all or Selected Pages
Printable Waxing Manual

As the ski season approaches, we receive more and more questions about how to wax new skis for snow and what is the proper waxing technique. 

Remember, waxing skis can be as much art as science and is constantly changing with time and new technologies
So.... Before we start waxing lets look at what makes for fast skis and fast skiing

Checking Questions

1. How's the training going, Skiing is a technique driven sport, having good technique and being able to ride a flat ski are keys to fast skiing...its never to late to sign up for some ski lessons or to join a training group

2. Do your Skis and Boots fit correctly, Boots that are worn out or don't fit correctly will allow your feet to move around in the boot making ski control difficult. Tip - Purchase the boots that fit the best first and the bindings second
Skis that do not fit correctly do not glide well and may be difficult to control. 
If you are not sure of the boot and ski fit take them to a local shop for a fit check. 

3. Base Condition, How's the base condition, now is the time to repair deep gouges, look for shiny glazed spots as these may be areas that are burnt and will require metal scraping or stone grinding for repair. (Only use a metal scraper if you are experienced)
If the skis have never been fast they may need stone grinding or a fit check

4. Waxing Technique, Like good skiing, waxing takes practice --- some lessons may be helpful. 
Take the time to attend a waxing clinic at your local shop or stop by for some pointers. 

If everything is yes here we are ready to wax skis .... One more point 

I hear several times each year "that I don't need to wax my skis... I'm just going out for a hard work out... 
AND YES YOU ARE. 

Myth Buster 
Going for a Hard Work Out on Slow Skis will not improve your skiing an only make you slow.

Skiing is a neurological technique driven sport, if you ski on slow skis you will develop a short choppy stride, work hard and not really develop the good technique needed to ski fast !

Fast skis help develop a long smooth stride & glide for a relaxed enjoyable ski.

Waxing Tools

To get started, a few things are important 

• Wax Bench -  Many Choices here, all sorts types and sizes -- Check with your local Dealers for some options

• Waxing Iron - Only use an iron designed for Ski Waxing 

• The next items are much less expensive; 

o Plastic scraper, 
o Ski brushes (fiber and metal), Horse Hair, Nylon and Metal
o Thermal Buffing Pad
o Grove cleaning tool 
o White Scotchbrite Pad
o Selection of waxes

Detailed Waxing Instructions for New or Stone Ground Skis 

1. Open the Skis Base  Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with medium metal brush. 
This will open the ski base clean out wax and dirt and allow better wax penetration of the new wax.

2. Remove Base Hairs  Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Pad wrapped over a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scothbrite pad  flat and prevent it rounding off the ski edges. 
Next, use a razor tool held at a 90° angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski several times to remove the fine base hairs. Check the razor blade edge after each pass and repeat until no gray fillings are left on the razor

3. Hot Wax Process Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep wax onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail. 
The wax will act as an insulator, a generous layer helps keep the iron off the skis base, use about one drip every 1/2 inch, more if you are inexperienced. When ironing in the wax, draw the iron down the ski holding a molten bead of  wax about  2 to 3 inches behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If necessary a second pass can pick up any places that are missed. 

4. Scraping off the Wax    Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edges while the ski is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature before scraping the bases 
Scrape the wax off using short easy strokes again working from tip to tail until all the wax is removed 
(Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it sharp  A scraper sharpener makes it easy to give the scraper a few passes each time before scraping.

5. Brushing out the ski Several options here If you are experienced A fine metal brush or a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the tendency here, however, is to over brush the ski with these tools and remove too much wax, so proceed cautiously when using metal brushes or power tools after waxing
Preferred, use a Nylon brush followed by a horse hair brush. When it appears no further wax is being removed stop.

6. Repeat steps 3 to 5

7. Waxing Sequence
New Skis 5 to 6 layers or Base Prep followed by 2 to 3 layers of HS-30 Red, 2 to 3 layers of HS-20 Blue and a few layers of HS-10 Green -  add the wax of the day and go skiing

Stone Grinding This depends on whether the skis were deep ground to remove gouges and  burnt bases or were just "touched up"
For "deep ground bases"  follow the same procedure described in the  new  skis section as most of the wax will be removed in the grinding process. 
For "touched up skis" the process is shortened as not as much wax is removed in the grinding process. Reduce the Base Prep applications about  2 to 3 layers followed by the HS-30 Red and a few layer of HS-20 Blue, then apply the wax of the day and ski.

Tip -- Skis generally do not get fast until they get some hard wax into them. This is something to try if your skis do not seem to be fast or are not getting fast -- add a few layer of HS-10 Teal Wax 

Race Waxing

1. Open the Skis Base  Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with fine metal brush for cold condition and medium metal brush for warmer conditions use 15° F as a general break point for the brushes. This will open the ski base clean out wax and dirt and allow better wax penetration of the new wax.

2. Remove Base Hairs  Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Pad wrapped over a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scotchbrite pad flat and prevent it from rounding of the ski edges. 
Next, use a razor tool held at a 90° angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski several times to remove the fine base hairs. Check the razor blade after each after each pass and repeat until no gray fillings are left on the razor.

3. Hot Wax Process Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep wax onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail. The wax will act as an insulator, a generous layer helps keep the iron off the skis base, use about one drip every 1/2 inch, more if you are inexperienced. When ironing in the wax, draw the iron down the ski holding a molten bead of  wax about  2 to 3 inches behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If necessary a second pass can pick up any places that are missed. 

4. Hot Scrape Hot scrape and brush out the skis for an additional cleaning. 

  Then repeat step 3 and allow the ski to cool to room temperature before scraping

5. Scraping off the Wax    Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edges while the ski is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature before scraping the bases 
Scrape the wax off using short easy strokes, again working from tip to tail until all wax is removed 
(Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it sharp  A scraper sharpener makes it easy to have a sharp scraper, just give the scraper a few passes over the sharpener each time before scraping.

6. Brushing out the ski Several options here If you are experienced A fine metal brush or a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the tendency here, however, is to over brush the ski with these tools and remove too much wax, so proceed cautiously when using metal brushes or power tools after waxing
Preferred is to use a Nylon brush followed by a horse hair brush. When it appears no further wax is being removed stop.

7. Wax System The Fast wax system is to layer up the ski with wax starting with Base Prep and go to an under layer of the Sport wax followed by Low Fluoro or High Fluoro waxes depending on conditions

Wax Example for Humid Conditions  Recommendations for the 2007 Birkie
Hot Scrape Base Prep
1 Layer of  HS-30 Red
2 Layers of HSF-30 Salmon
Flite corked or ironed in over the top the HSF-30 Salmon
 

For extremely Humid condition an added layer of Flite 11 will improve speed significantly

Step-by-Step Waxing Instructions

1.  Always work the ski from the tip to the tail. (never in reverse direction). 
     Iron in the wax scrape and brush from tip to tail

2.  Clean the ski.

• Brush off the ski base with a fine metal or nylon brush
• Melt wax onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail
• Scrape warm with a plastic scraper
• Brush out with the Nylon Brush

• If the ski base is damaged check with your local Dealer for advice
• Remove the fibrils with a White Scotchbrite pad
• Structure the ski base for current conditions (see section on Tips) 

5.  Brush the ski with a fiber brush to clean the structure.

Repeat steps 4 and 5.

6.  Structure the ski base for current conditions (see Tips) 

Every Day Quick Waxing
1. Brush out the ski with a fine metal or Nylon Brush
2. Melt in wax for the current conditions and iron in from tip to tail
3. Grab a snack while the ski cools
4. Scrape and brush out -- go skiing

Even Better Yet
1. Brush out the ski with Nylon Brush
2. Rub in a layer of Slick Pro
3. Grab a Snack
4. Cork in with a Thermal Pad, Bush out and Ski

Flite # 11 Application Instructions 
Iron Instructions
1.  Follow the Fast Wax instructions for preparing and waxing the ski base.
2.  Apply Flite powder to the ski base and distribute evenly.
3.  Iron in from tip to tail, even pressure and steady slow speed with the iron (low heat).
4.  Cork the ski from tip to tail, use high pressure rapid speed to make powder blend into the ski base.
5.  Let the ski cool slowly.
6.  Brush with coarse then fine brush always working the ski from tip to tail.
7.  Polish ski base.

Corking Instructions
1.  Follow the Fast Wax instructions for preparing and waxing ski base.
2.  Apply Flite powder to the ski base and distribute evenly.
3.  Cork the Flite powder working the ski from tip to tail, use high pressure and rapid speed to generate enough heat 
      to make powder blend into the ski base.
4.  Brush with coarse then fine brush always working the ski from tip to tail.
5.  Polish ski base.
 

Paste Waxing

A new system for High Performance Waxing is the new Slick Pro Paste Wax Line. 
Slick Pro gives the performance of a Hot Melt wax in ease of a Paste Wax. 

1. Rub on Slick Pro using the inclosed foam applicator
2. Let dry for 3 to 5 minutes
3. Buff in with the Speed Block
4. Brush out with a horse hair brush and Ski
5. For added durability repeat 1 to 4 for a second coat

Slick Pro is a great wax at the race site when conditions from the  forecast.
Saves time when traveling, 
Is a great training wax during the week.

Great for families with multiple skiers --Change the wax on everyone's skis in just a few minutes 

Check out the details in the newsletter 
 
 
 

Wax Selection
 

When selecting a wax, sometimes we have to trust the weather report. However, even with our  weather forecasting models, occasionally an unexpected front comes through changing the conditions. 

If the skis must be waxed the day before a race and conditions are uncertain, try to select a wax slightly colder than forecast and apply a finer structure than normal. This way, if the temperature change is warmer than expected, structure can be added at the race site with a riling tool and your skis will be OK.

The best bet is to have a back up pair of skis waxed for alternate conditions. Try not to error on the side of waxing too warm. Going from a warm wax and large structure to a cold wax and polished skis is difficult to accomplish at the race site. 

Third option is to carry a selection of the Slick Pro Paste wax. Slick Pro can be applied at the race site for quick waxing 

Link to the Wax Master 
. 

Artificial or man-made snow - referred to from here on as MMS, a combination of snow, dirt and oil. 

Keep in mind as we make recommendations for MMS the 80 – 20 rule applies: the rule is good 80% of the time. 
MMS is a hard particle of ice, not a hollow flake of snow. For this reason, wax recommendations will change slightly from those for natural snow. 

MMS can also vary wildly because of the volume traffic on the trail and the grooming and tilling of the snow

-- On MMS Ski flex can be a major factor, try to keep a medium and stiff skis on hand and use more structure than normal

In temperatures below freezing, wax a littler harder  with more structure and a stiffer ski. In temperatures above freezing, wax cooler with a larger structure. MMS holds more moisture in cooler temperatures, however, MMS does not mush out as easily in warm temperatures and the base under the MMS is generally ICE. 
 
 

General recommendations: cold dry wind from the north

• Temperature in the single digits, HS-0 White – Universal grind, stiff ski.
• Temperature in the teens to low 20’s, HSF-10 Green – Universal grind, stiff to medium flexed ski.
• Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-20 Tan – Universal structure, stiff to medium flex skis.
• Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-30 Salmon – Universal structure with a light rill, still to medium flex ski. 

• Temperature in the upper teens-low 20’s, HSF-20 Tan – Universal grind, stiff to medium flexed ski
• Temperature in the upper 20’s to low 30’s, HSF 30 Salmon – Universal structure with a rill, still to medium flex ski
• Temperature at or above freezing, HSF-30 Salmon – Rill or wet grind, stiff ski 

Structure
If you have one pair of skis, changing the base structure will be a regular occurrence as snow type, temperature and conditions change. 
1. Polish the base for cold conditions and be sure to keep the ski surface very smooth. 
2. For intermediate conditions, 15 to 25 F, brush the base with a fine metal brush. 
3. For conditions just below freezing use a medium metal brush if conditions are dry, rill if wet conditions 
4. Above 35 F, begin with a fine rill and increase the size of the rill as the temperature increases. Apply structure in a discontinuous pattern. 

If several pairs of skis are available, try to set up a pair of skis up for each condition. Here stone grinding will help. Use a fine grind for cold conditions and increase the size of the grind as the temperature warms. 
The ski grinding technician, should be able to maximize your skis performance by matching the proper stone grind, with the ski flex, for the snow conditions.  For more information on stonegrinding options, see Stonegrinding Options for Peak Performance

If you plan on having your skis stone ground, be sure seek out a shop that specializes in stone grinding

Miscellaneous
Keep both the metal and plastic scrapers sharp. Use a diamond stone on the metal scraper. Hold the scraper at a 90 degree angle and rotate in a figure eight pattern. Sharpen the plastic scraper with the Fast Wax Eversharp Scraper Sharpener. It will keep your scraper perfectly flat as it sharpens the edge.

Select waxes by snow conditions. Many times with large air temperature swings, the snow will remain constant or lag significantly behind the air temperature, especially in wooded areas. If possible, always test your skis on the trail not in the stadium. 

Cold, clear or windy conditions or cold new snow; anticipate abrasive snow and wax for colder than expected temperatures. 

Low areas, woods, generally shaded areas; wax for colder than expected temperatures.

Warm nights, new snow; expect moist snow and use structure and fluorinated waxes. In addition, overcast conditions are generally humid, and fluorinated waxes typically work best. 

Summary

The main thing to remember, be consistent with waxing. Use the same process each time and develop a waxing log the same as a training log, noting structure, temperature, snow conditions and performance. 

Wax your skis often, the more skis are waxed, the faster the skis become and the better you become at waxing. 

Test glide skis often. Use a steep down hill for high speed evaluation, low angle hills for slow speed 
and up-hill for striding. Many times top racers choose a race ski by the way it climbs. 

Most of all, have fun and ski often.

Questions or Comments?

Please contact Dan Meyer at fastwax@visi.com with any technical questions or comments on the Fast Wax website.