Table of Contents
     
    Fast Skis and Skiing Introduction and Background for fast skis and skiing
    Waxing Tools List of necessary tools to get started waxing
    Detailed Waxing for New or Stone Ground Skis Detailed instruction on prepping new skis and stone ground skis for waxing and the keys to making skis fast
    Race Waxing Detailed instructions for race waxing... all the little steps
    Step-by-Step Waxing Instructions General easy waxing instructions ( Beginning Waxing & Quick Waxing)
    Flite # 11 Waxing Instructions Flite Applications for both ironing and corking
    Paste Waxing Slick Pro Paste Waxing easy system to fast skis
    Waxing Selection Check out the wax master for hints on waxing
    Man Made Snow Tips for waxing and skis flex for skiing on Man Made Snow
    Structure How  When & Why to add structure 
    Miscellaneous General Tips on Ski Waxing
    Summary
    Iron Temperatures Settings for Wax Iron 
    Questions or Comments?

    Link to Printable Waxing Recommendations for Daily Skiing
    HS-0 Series
    Temp -20 to 10 F
    HS-10 Series
    Temp -5 to 15 F
    HS-20 Series
    Temp 12 to 28 F
    HS-30 Series
    Temp 22 to 32 F
    HS-40 Series
    Temp 30 to 50 F




    Fast Skis & Skiing

    As the ski season approaches, we receive more and more questions about how to wax new skis for snow and what is the proper waxing technique. 

    Remember, waxing skis can be as much art as science and is constantly changing with time and new technologies
    So.... Before we start waxing lets look at what makes for fast skis and fast skiing

    Checking Questions

    1. How's the training going, Skiing is a technique driven sport, having good technique and being able to ride a flat ski are keys to fast skiing...its never to late to sign up for some ski lessons or to join a training group

    2. Do your Skis and Boots fit correctly, Boots that are worn out or don't fit correctly will allow your feet to move around in the boot making ski control difficult. Tip - Purchase the boots that fit the best first and the bindings second
    Skis that do not fit correctly do not glide well and may be difficult to control. 
    If you are not sure of the boot and ski fit take them to a local shop for a fit check. 

    3. Base Condition, How's the base condition, now is the time to repair deep gouges, look for shiny glazed spots as these may be areas that are burnt and will require metal scraping or stone grinding for repair. (Only use a metal scraper if you are experienced)
    If the skis have never been fast they may need stone grinding or a fit check

    4. Waxing Technique, Like good skiing, waxing takes practice --- some lessons may be helpful. 
    Take the time to attend a waxing clinic at your local shop or stop by for some pointers. 

    If everything is yes here we are ready to wax skis .... One more point 

    I hear several times each year "that I don't need to wax my skis... I'm just going out for a hard work out... 
    AND YES YOU ARE. 

    Myth Buster 
    Going for a Hard Work Out on Slow Skis will not improve your skiing an only make you slow.

    Fast skis help develop a long smooth stride & glide for a relaxed enjoyable ski.



     

    Waxing Tools

    To get started, a few things are important 

    • Wax Bench -  Many Choices here, all sorts types and sizes -- Check with your local Dealers for some options

    • Waxing Iron - Only use an iron designed for Ski Waxing 

    • The next items are much less expensive; 

    o Plastic scraper, 
    o Ski brushes (fiber and metal), Horse Hair, Nylon and Metal
    o Thermal Buffing Pad
    o Grove cleaning tool 
    o White Scotchbrite Pad
    o Selection of waxes

       


     

    Detailed Waxing Instructions for New or Stone Ground Skis 

    1. Open the Skis Base  Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with medium metal brush. 
    This will open the ski base clean out wax and dirt and allow better wax penetration of the new wax.

    2. Remove Base Hairs  Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Pad wrapped over a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scothbrite pad  flat and prevent it rounding off the ski edges. 
    Next, use a razor tool held at a 90° angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski several times to remove the fine base hairs. Check the razor blade edge after each pass and repeat until no gray fillings are left on the razor

    3. Hot Wax Process Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep wax onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail. 
    The wax will act as an insulator, a generous layer helps keep the iron off the skis base, use about one drip every 1/2 inch, more if you are inexperienced. When ironing in the wax, draw the iron down the ski holding a molten bead of  wax about  2 to 3 inches behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If necessary a second pass can pick up any places that are missed. 

    4. Scraping off the Wax    Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edges while the ski is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature before scraping the bases 
    Scrape the wax off using short easy strokes again working from tip to tail until all the wax is removed 
    (Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it sharp  A scraper sharpener makes it easy to give the scraper a few passes each time before scraping.

    5. Brushing out the ski Several options here If you are experienced A fine metal brush or a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the tendency here, however, is to over brush the ski with these tools and remove too much wax, so proceed cautiously when using metal brushes or power tools after waxing
    Preferred, use a Nylon brush followed by a horse hair brush. When it appears no further wax is being removed stop.

    6. Repeat steps 3 to 5

    7. Waxing Sequence
    New Skis 5 to 6 layers or Base Prep followed by 2 to 3 layers of HS-30 Red, 2 to 3 layers of HS-20 Blue and a few layers of HS-10 Green -  add the wax of the day and go skiing

    Stone Grinding This depends on whether the skis were deep ground to remove gouges and  burnt bases or were just "touched up"
    For "deep ground bases"  follow the same procedure described in the  new  skis section as most of the wax will be removed in the grinding process. 
    For "touched up skis" the process is shortened as not as much wax is removed in the grinding process. Reduce the Base Prep applications about  2 to 3 layers followed by the HS-30 Red and a few layer of HS-20 Blue, then apply the wax of the day and ski.

    Tip -- Skis generally do not get fast until they get some hard wax into them. This is something to try if your skis do not seem to be fast or are not getting fast -- add a few layer of HS-10 Teal Wax 




     

    Race Waxing

    1. Open the Skis Base  Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with fine metal brush for cold condition and medium metal brush for warmer conditions use 15° F as a general break point for the brushes. This will open the ski base clean out wax and dirt and allow better wax penetration of the new wax.

    2. Remove Base Hairs  Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Pad wrapped over a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scotchbrite pad flat and prevent it from rounding of the ski edges. 
    Next, use a razor tool held at a 90° angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski several times to remove the fine base hairs. Check the razor blade after each after each pass and repeat until no gray fillings are left on the razor.

    3. Hot Wax Process Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep wax onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail. The wax will act as an insulator, a generous layer helps keep the iron off the skis base, use about one drip every 1/2 inch, more if you are inexperienced. When ironing in the wax, draw the iron down the ski holding a molten bead of  wax about  2 to 3 inches behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If necessary a second pass can pick up any places that are missed. 

    4. Hot Scrape Hot scrape and brush out the skis for an additional cleaning. 

      Then repeat step 3 and allow the ski to cool to room temperature before scraping

    5. Scraping off the Wax    Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edges while the ski is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature before scraping the bases 
    Scrape the wax off using short easy strokes, again working from tip to tail until all wax is removed
    (Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it sharp  A scraper sharpener makes it easy to have a sharp scraper, just give the scraper a few passes over the sharpener each time before scraping.

    6. Brushing out the ski Several options here If you are experienced A fine metal brush or a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the tendency here, however, is to over brush the ski with these tools and remove too much wax, so proceed cautiously when using metal brushes or power tools after waxing
    Preferred is to use a Nylon brush followed by a horse hair brush. When it appears no further wax is being removed stop.

    7. Wax System The Fast wax system is to layer up the ski with wax starting with Base Prep and go to an under layer of the Sport wax followed by Low Fluoro or High Fluoro waxes depending on conditions

    Wax Example for Humid Conditions  Recommendations for the 2007 Birkie
    Hot Scrape Base Prep
    1 Layer of  HS-30 Red
    2 Layers of HSF-30 Salmon
    Flite corked or ironed in over the top the HSF-30 Salmon
     

    For extremely Humid condition an added layer of Flite 11 will improve speed significantly




     
     

    Step-by-Step Waxing Instructions

    1.  Always work the ski from the tip to the tail. (never in reverse direction). 
         Iron in the wax scrape and brush from tip to tail

    2.  Clean the ski.

    • Brush off the ski base with a fine metal or nylon brush
    • Melt wax onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail
    • Scrape warm with a plastic scraper
    • Brush out with the Nylon Brush
    3.  Base Preparation.
    • If the ski base is damaged check with your local Dealer for advice
    • Remove the fibrils with a White Scotchbrite pad
    • Structure the ski base for current conditions (see section on Tips) 
    4.  Wax for current conditions and allow ski to cool prior to scraping with plastic scraper.

    5.  Brush the ski with a fiber brush to clean the structure.

    Repeat steps 4 and 5.

    6.  Structure the ski base for current conditions (see Tips

    Every Day Quick Waxing
    1. Brush out the ski with a fine metal or Nylon Brush
    2. Melt in wax for the current conditions and iron in from tip to tail
    3. Grab a snack while the ski cools
    4. Scrape and brush out -- go skiing

    Even Better Yet
    1. Brush out the ski with Nylon Brush
    2. Rub in a layer of Slick Pro
    3. Grab a Snack
    4. Cork in with a Thermal Pad, Bush out and Ski

     


    Flite # 11 Application Instructions 

    Iron Instructions
    1.  Follow the Fast Wax instructions for preparing and waxing the ski base.
         (Make sure the skis are throughly brushed out before starting the Flite Application, 
          brush lightly with a fine metal brush 1 to 2 passes, and polish with a horse hair brush)
    2.  Apply Flite powder to the ski base and distribute evenly.
    3.  Iron in from tip to tail, even pressure and steady slow speed with the iron (low to medium heat).
    4.  Cork in with Speed Block Thermal Pad from tip to tail, use high pressure rapid speed to work the powder 
          into the ski base.
    5.  Let the ski cool slowly.
    6.  Brush: One pass with a fine metal brush very light pressure to break the glaze on the ski base, 
         polish with horse hair brush or soft nylon polishing brush always working the ski from tip to tail.
    7.  Polish ski base to a shinny finish.

    Corking Instructions
    1.  Follow the Fast Wax instructions for preparing and waxing ski base.
          (Make sure the skis are throughly bushed out before Flite Application, brush lightly with a fine metal brush 
          and polish with a horse hair brush)
    2.  Apply Flite powder to the ski base using several very light layers and cork in each layer using the 
         Speed Block Thermal Pad apply 4 to 5 light layers corking in between layers.
    3.  Brush: One pass with a fine metal brush very light pressure to break the glaze look on the base, 
         polish with horse hair brush or soft nylon polishing brush always working the ski from tip to tail.
    4.  Polish ski base to a shinny finish.

    Roto Corking Instructions (Please Note)
    Roto Corking is not recommended for Nodic skis unless you are very experienced with a roto cork.
    It is very easy to damage the Nordic ski base or the edge of the ski with a roto cork. 
    Alpine skis have a metal edge and can be roto corked more easily.
    1.  Follow the Fast Wax instructions for preparing and waxing the ski base.
         (Make sure the skis are throughly brushed out before Flite Application, brush lightly with a fine metal brush 
          and polish with a horse hair brush before starting the Flite Application)
    2.  Apply Flite powder to the ski base and distribute evenly.
    3.  Roto cork in using  even pressure across the base and and steady smooth speed along the ski).
    4.  Cork in with Speed Block Thermal Pad from tip to tail, use high pressure rapid speed to work the powder 
          into the ski base.
    5.  Brush: One pass with a fine metal brush very light pressure to break the glaze on the ski base, 
         polish with horse hair or soft nylon polishing brush always working the ski from tip to tail.
    6.  Polish ski base to a shinny finish.




     

    Paste Waxing

    A new system for High Performance Waxing is the new Slick Pro Paste Wax Line. 
    Slick Pro gives the performance of a Hot Melt wax in ease of a Paste Wax. 

    1. Rub on Slick Pro using the inclosed foam applicator
    2. Let dry for 3 to 5 minutes
    3. Buff in with the Speed Block
    4. Brush out with a horse hair brush and Ski
    5. For added durability repeat 1 to 4 for a second coat

    Slick Pro is a great wax to have on hand at the race site when weather and snow conditions are changing...
    Skiing can easily be rewax in minutes.
    Saves time when traveling, 
    Is a great training wax during the week.

    Great for families with multiple skiers --Change the wax on everyone's skis in just a few minutes 

    Check out the details in the newsletter 
     
     
     


     
     

    Wax Selection
     

    When selecting a wax, sometimes we have to trust the weather report. However, even with our  weather forecasting models, occasionally an unexpected front comes through changing the conditions. 

    If the skis must be waxed the day before a race and conditions are uncertain, try to select a wax slightly colder than forecast and apply a finer structure than normal. This way, if the temperature change is warmer than expected, structure can be added at the race site with a riling tool and your skis will be OK.

    The best bet is to have a back up pair of skis waxed for alternate conditions. Try not to error on the side of waxing too warm. Going from a warm wax and large structure to a cold wax and polished skis is difficult to accomplish at the race site. 

    Third option is to carry a selection of the Slick Pro Paste wax. Slick Pro can be applied at the race site for quick waxing 

    Link to the Wax Master 




     

    Artificial or man-made snow - referred to from here on as MMS, a combination of snow, dirt and oil. 

    Keep in mind as we make recommendations for MMS the 80 – 20 rule applies: the rule is good 80% of the time. 
    MMS is a hard particle of ice, not a hollow flake of snow. For this reason, wax recommendations will change slightly from those for natural snow. 

    MMS can also vary wildly because of the volume traffic on the trail and the grooming and tilling of the snow

    -- On MMS Ski flex can be a major factor, try to keep a medium and stiff skis on hand and use more structure than normal

    In temperatures below freezing, wax a littler harder  with more structure and a stiffer ski. In temperatures above freezing, wax cooler with a larger structure. MMS holds more moisture in cooler temperatures, however, MMS does not mush out as easily in warm temperatures and the base under the MMS is generally ICE. 
     
     

    General recommendations: cold dry wind from the north

    • Temperature in the single digits, HS-0 White – Universal grind, stiff ski.
    • Temperature in the teens to low 20’s, HSF-10 Green – Universal grind, stiff to medium flexed ski.
    • Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-20 Tan – Universal structure, stiff to medium flex skis.
    • Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-30 Salmon – Universal structure with a light rill, still to medium flex ski. 
    General recommendations: wind from the south, warm and humid
    • Temperature in the upper teens-low 20’s, HSF-20 Tan – Universal grind, stiff to medium flexed ski
    • Temperature in the upper 20’s to low 30’s, HSF 30 Salmon – Universal structure with a rill, still to medium flex ski
    • Temperature at or above freezing, HSF-30 Salmon – Rill or wet grind, stiff ski 
    Ski Maintenance: WAX more often. MMS is abrasive and will wear wax faster than snow. If  you do not wax your skis MMS will eat up your bases. 


     

    Structure
    If you have one pair of skis, changing the base structure will be a regular occurrence as snow type, temperature and conditions change. 
    1. Polish the base for cold conditions and be sure to keep the ski surface very smooth.
    2. For intermediate conditions, 15 to 25 F, brush the base with a fine metal brush. 
    3. For conditions just below freezing use a medium metal brush if conditions are dry, rill if wet conditions 
    4. Above 35 F, begin with a fine rill and increase the size of the rill as the temperature increases. Apply structure in a discontinuous pattern. 

    If several pairs of skis are available, try to set up a pair of skis up for each condition. Here stone grinding will help. Use a fine grind for cold conditions and increase the size of the grind as the temperature warms. 
    The ski grinding technician, should be able to maximize your skis performance by matching the proper stone grind, with the ski flex, for the snow conditions.  For more information on stonegrinding options, see Stonegrinding Options for Peak Performance

    If you plan on having your skis stone ground, be sure seek out a shop that specializes in stone grinding



     

    Miscellaneous
    Keep both the metal and plastic scrapers sharp. Use a diamond stone on the metal scraper. Hold the scraper at a 90 degree angle and rotate in a figure eight pattern. Sharpen the plastic scraper with the Fast Wax Eversharp Scraper Sharpener. It will keep your scraper perfectly flat as it sharpens the edge.

    Select waxes by snow conditions. Many times with large air temperature swings, the snow will remain constant or lag significantly behind the air temperature, especially in wooded areas. If possible, always test your skis on the trail not in the stadium. 

    Cold, clear or windy conditions or cold new snow; anticipate abrasive snow and wax for colder than expected temperatures. 

    Low areas, woods, generally shaded areas; wax for colder than expected temperatures.

    Warm nights, new snow; expect moist snow and use structure and fluorinated waxes. In addition, overcast conditions are generally humid, and fluorinated waxes typically work best. 



     

    Summary

    The main thing to remember, be consistent with waxing. Use the same process each time and develop a waxing log the same as a training log, noting structure, temperature, snow conditions and performance. 

    Wax your skis often, the more skis are waxed, the faster the skis become and the better you become at waxing. 

    Test glide skis often. Use a steep down hill for high speed evaluation, low angle hills for slow speed 
    and up-hill for striding. Many times top racers choose a race ski by the way it climbs. 

    Most of all, have fun and ski often.











                                     Waxing Iron Temperatures
                                         Temps are a guideline as each iron may vary slightly. 
                                         Test the wax on the iron before applying the iron to the ski
     

        Wax    Setting Low    Setting High
    Base Prep
    HS 40 Yellow
    HSLF 40 Yellow
    HSF 40 Bronze
    Digital Iron  250 F 

    Standard Dial Iron
    5 to 6 Medium

    Digital Iron 265 F
    Standard Dial Iron
    5 to 6 Medium
    HS 30 Red
    HSLF 30 Red
    HSF  30 Salmon
    Digital Iron  260 F
    Standard Dial Iron
    6 to 7 Medium
    Digital Iron 275 F
    Standard Dial Iron
    6 to 7 Medium
    HS 20 Blue
    HSLF 20 Blue
    HSF 20 Tan
    Digital Iron  265 F
    Standard Dial Iron
    6 to 8 Medium
    Digital Iron  280 F
    Standard Dial Iron
    6 to 8 Medium
    HS 10 Teal
    HSLF 10 Teal
    HSF 10 Green
    HS - 0 White
    Digital Iron  275 F
    Standard Dial Iron
    7 to 8.5 Medium
    Digital Iron  285 F
    Standard Dial Iron
    7 to 8.5 Medium


     

    Questions or Comments?

    Please contact us at fastwax@visi.com with any technical questions or comments on the Fast Wax website.