Table of Contents
Link to Printable Waxing
Recommendations for Daily Skiing
Fast Skis & Skiing
As the ski season approaches, we receive
more and more questions about how to wax new skis for snow and what is
the proper waxing technique.
Remember, waxing skis can be as much art
as science and is constantly changing
with time and new technologies
So.... Before we start waxing lets look
at what makes for fast skis and fast skiing
Checking Questions
1. How's
the training going, Skiing is a technique
driven sport, having good technique and being able to ride a flat ski are
keys to fast skiing...its never to late to sign up for some ski lessons
or to join a training group
2. Do your Skis and Boots fit
correctly, Boots that are worn out or don't fit correctly will
allow your feet to move around in the boot making ski control difficult.
Tip
- Purchase the boots that fit the best first and the bindings second
Skis that do not fit correctly do not
glide well and may be difficult to control.
If you are not sure of the boot and ski
fit take them to a local shop for a fit check.
3. Base Condition,
How's the base condition, now is the time to repair deep gouges, look for
shiny glazed spots as these may be areas that are burnt and will require
metal scraping or stone grinding for repair. (Only use a metal scraper
if you are experienced)
If the skis have never been fast they
may need stone grinding or a fit check
4. Waxing Technique,
Like good skiing, waxing takes practice --- some lessons may be helpful.
Take the time to attend a waxing clinic
at your local shop or stop by for some pointers.
If everything is yes here we are
ready to wax skis .... One more point
I hear several times each year "that I
don't need to wax my skis... I'm just going out for a hard work out...
AND YES YOU ARE.
Myth Buster
Going for a Hard
Work Out on Slow Skis will not improve your skiing an only make you slow.
Fast skis help
develop a long smooth stride & glide for a relaxed enjoyable ski.
Waxing Tools
To get started, a few things are important
• Wax Bench - Many Choices here,
all sorts types and sizes -- Check with your local Dealers for some options
• Waxing Iron - Only use an iron designed
for Ski Waxing
• The next items are much less expensive;
o Plastic scraper,
o Ski brushes (fiber and metal), Horse
Hair, Nylon and Metal
o Thermal Buffing Pad
o Grove cleaning tool
o White Scotchbrite Pad
o Selection of waxes
Detailed Waxing Instructions
for New or Stone Ground Skis
1. Open the Skis Base
Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with medium metal
brush.
This will open the ski base clean out
wax and dirt and allow better wax penetration of the new wax.
2. Remove Base Hairs
Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Pad wrapped over
a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scothbrite pad flat
and prevent it rounding off the ski edges.
Next, use a razor tool held at a 90°
angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski several times to remove the
fine base hairs. Check the razor blade edge after each pass and repeat
until no gray fillings are left on the razor
3. Hot Wax Process
Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep wax onto the
ski base and iron in from tip to tail.
The wax will act as an insulator, a generous
layer helps keep the iron off the skis base, use about one drip every 1/2
inch, more if you are inexperienced. When ironing in the wax, draw the
iron down the ski holding a molten bead of wax about 2 to 3
inches behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If necessary a
second pass can pick up any places that are missed.
4. Scraping off the Wax
Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edges while the ski
is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature before
scraping the bases
Scrape the wax off using short easy strokes
again working from tip to tail until all the wax is removed
(Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it
sharp A scraper sharpener makes it easy to give the scraper a few
passes each time before scraping.
5. Brushing out the ski
Several options here If you are experienced
A fine metal brush or a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the
tendency here, however, is to over brush the ski with these tools and remove
too much wax, so proceed cautiously when using metal brushes or power tools
after waxing
Preferred, use a Nylon brush followed
by a horse hair brush. When it appears no further wax is being removed
stop.
6. Repeat steps 3 to 5
7. Waxing Sequence
New Skis 5 to 6 layers or Base
Prep followed by 2 to 3 layers of HS-30 Red, 2 to 3 layers of HS-20 Blue
and a few layers of HS-10 Green - add the wax of the day and go skiing
Stone Grinding This depends on whether
the skis were deep ground to remove gouges and burnt bases or were
just "touched up"
For "deep ground bases" follow the
same procedure described in the new
skis section as most of the wax will be removed in the grinding process.
For "touched up skis" the process is shortened
as not as much wax is removed in the grinding process. Reduce the Base
Prep applications about 2 to 3 layers followed by the HS-30 Red and
a few layer of HS-20 Blue, then apply the wax of the day and ski.
Tip -- Skis generally do not get
fast until they get some hard wax into them. This is something to try if
your skis do not seem to be fast or are not getting fast -- add a few layer
of HS-10 Teal Wax
Race Waxing
1. Open the Skis Base
Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with fine metal
brush for cold condition and medium metal brush for warmer conditions use
15° F as a general break point for the brushes. This will open the
ski base clean out wax and dirt and allow better wax penetration of the
new wax.
2. Remove Base Hairs
Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Pad wrapped over
a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scotchbrite pad flat and
prevent it from rounding of the ski edges.
Next, use a razor tool held at a 90°
angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski several times to remove the
fine base hairs. Check the razor blade after each after each pass and repeat
until no gray fillings are left on the razor.
3. Hot Wax Process
Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep wax onto the
ski base and iron in from tip to tail. The wax will act as an insulator,
a generous layer helps keep the iron off the skis base, use about one drip
every 1/2 inch, more if you are inexperienced. When ironing in the wax,
draw the iron down the ski holding a molten bead of wax about
2 to 3 inches behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If necessary
a second pass can pick up any places that are missed.
4. Hot Scrape Hot
scrape and brush out the skis for an additional cleaning.
Then repeat step 3 and allow the
ski to cool to room temperature before scraping
5. Scraping off the Wax
Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edges while the ski
is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature before
scraping the bases
Scrape the wax off using short easy strokes,
again working from tip to tail until all wax is removed
(Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep
it sharp A scraper sharpener makes it easy to have a sharp scraper,
just give the scraper a few passes over the sharpener each time before
scraping.
6. Brushing out the ski
Several options here If you are experienced
A fine metal brush or a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the
tendency here, however, is to over brush the ski with these tools and remove
too much wax, so proceed cautiously when using metal brushes or power tools
after waxing
Preferred is to use a Nylon brush
followed by a horse hair brush. When it appears no further wax is being
removed stop.
7. Wax System The
Fast wax system is to layer up the ski with wax starting with Base Prep
and go to an under layer of the Sport wax followed by Low Fluoro or High
Fluoro waxes depending on conditions
Wax Example for Humid Conditions
Recommendations for the 2007 Birkie
Hot Scrape Base Prep
1 Layer of HS-30 Red
2 Layers of HSF-30 Salmon
Flite corked or ironed in over the top
the HSF-30 Salmon
For extremely Humid condition an added
layer of Flite 11 will improve speed significantly
Step-by-Step Waxing Instructions
1. Always work
the ski from the tip to the tail. (never in reverse direction).
Iron in the wax
scrape and brush from tip to tail
2. Clean the ski.
-
Brush off the ski base with a fine metal or
nylon brush
-
Melt wax onto the ski base and iron in from
tip to tail
-
Scrape warm with a plastic scraper
-
Brush out with the Nylon Brush
3. Base Preparation.
-
If the ski base is damaged check with your
local Dealer for advice
-
Remove the fibrils with a White Scotchbrite
pad
-
Structure the ski base for current conditions
(see section on Tips)
4. Wax for current conditions and
allow ski to cool prior to scraping with plastic scraper.
5. Brush the ski with a fiber brush
to clean the structure.
Repeat steps 4 and 5.
6. Structure the ski base for current
conditions (see Tips)
Every Day Quick Waxing
1. Brush out the ski with a fine metal
or Nylon Brush
2. Melt in wax for the current conditions
and iron in from tip to tail
3. Grab a snack while the ski cools
4. Scrape and brush out -- go skiing
Even Better Yet
1. Brush out the ski with Nylon Brush
2. Rub in a layer of Slick Pro
3. Grab a Snack
4. Cork in with a Thermal Pad, Bush out
and Ski
Flite # 11 Application
Instructions
Iron Instructions
1. Follow the Fast Wax instructions
for preparing and waxing the ski base.
(Make sure the
skis are throughly brushed out before starting the Flite Application,
brush lightly
with a fine metal brush 1 to 2 passes, and polish with a horse hair brush)
2. Apply Flite powder to the ski
base and distribute evenly.
3. Iron in from tip to tail, even
pressure and steady slow speed with the iron (low to medium heat).
4. Cork in with Speed Block Thermal
Pad from tip to tail, use high pressure rapid speed to work the powder
into the
ski base.
5. Let the ski cool slowly.
6. Brush: One pass with a fine metal
brush very light pressure to break the glaze on the ski base,
polish with horse
hair brush or soft nylon polishing brush always working the ski from tip
to tail.
7. Polish ski base to a shinny finish.
Corking Instructions
1. Follow the Fast Wax instructions
for preparing and waxing ski base.
(Make sure
the skis are throughly bushed out before Flite Application, brush lightly
with a fine metal brush
and polish
with a horse hair brush)
2. Apply Flite powder to the ski
base using several very light layers and cork in each layer using the
Speed Block Thermal
Pad apply 4 to 5 light layers corking in between layers.
3. Brush: One pass with a fine metal
brush very light pressure to break the glaze look on the base,
polish with horse
hair brush or soft nylon polishing brush always working the ski from tip
to tail.
4. Polish ski base to a shinny finish.
Roto Corking Instructions (Please Note)
Roto
Corking is not recommended for Nodic skis unless you are very experienced
with a roto cork.
It
is very easy to damage the Nordic ski base or the edge of the ski with
a roto cork.
Alpine
skis have a metal edge and can be roto corked more easily.
1. Follow the Fast Wax instructions
for preparing and waxing the ski base.
(Make sure the
skis are throughly brushed out before Flite Application, brush lightly
with a fine metal brush
and polish
with a horse hair brush before starting the Flite Application)
2. Apply Flite powder to the ski
base and distribute evenly.
3. Roto cork in using even
pressure across the base and and steady smooth speed along the ski).
4. Cork in with Speed Block Thermal
Pad from tip to tail, use high pressure rapid speed to work the powder
into the
ski base.
5. Brush: One pass with a fine metal
brush very light pressure to break the glaze on the ski base,
polish with horse
hair or soft nylon polishing brush always working the ski from tip to tail.
6. Polish ski base to a shinny finish.
Paste Waxing
A new system for High Performance Waxing
is the new Slick Pro Paste Wax Line.
Slick Pro gives the performance of a Hot
Melt wax in ease of a Paste Wax.
1. Rub on Slick Pro using the inclosed
foam applicator
2. Let dry for 3 to 5 minutes
3. Buff in with the Speed Block
4. Brush out with a horse hair brush and
Ski
5. For added durability repeat 1 to 4
for a second coat
Slick Pro is a great wax to have on hand
at the race site when weather and snow conditions are changing...
Skiing can easily be rewax in minutes.
Saves time when traveling,
Is a great training wax during the week.
Great for families with multiple skiers
--Change the wax on everyone's skis in just a few minutes
Check out the details in the newsletter
Wax Selection
When selecting a wax, sometimes we have
to trust the weather report. However, even with our weather forecasting
models, occasionally an unexpected front comes through changing the conditions.
If the skis must be waxed the day before
a race and conditions are uncertain, try to select a wax slightly colder
than forecast and apply a finer structure than normal. This way, if the
temperature change is warmer than expected, structure can be added at the
race site with a riling tool and your skis will be OK.
The best bet is to have a back up pair
of skis waxed for alternate conditions. Try not to error on the side of
waxing too warm. Going from a warm wax and large structure to a cold wax
and polished skis is difficult to accomplish at the race site.
Third option is to carry a selection of
the Slick Pro Paste wax. Slick Pro can be applied at the race site for
quick waxing
Link to the Wax
Master
.
Artificial or man-made snow - referred
to from here on as MMS, a combination of snow, dirt and oil.
Keep in mind as we make recommendations
for MMS the 80 – 20 rule applies: the rule is good 80% of the time.
MMS is a hard particle of ice, not a hollow
flake of snow. For this reason, wax recommendations will change slightly
from those for natural snow.
MMS can also vary wildly because of the
volume traffic on the trail and the grooming and tilling of the snow
-- On MMS Ski flex can be a major factor,
try to keep a medium and stiff skis on hand and use more structure than
normal
In temperatures below freezing, wax a littler
harder with more structure and a stiffer ski. In temperatures above
freezing, wax cooler with a larger structure. MMS holds more moisture in
cooler temperatures, however, MMS does not mush out as easily in warm temperatures
and the base under the MMS is generally ICE.
General recommendations: cold dry wind
from the north
-
Temperature in the single digits, HS-0 White
– Universal grind, stiff ski.
-
Temperature in the teens to low 20’s, HSF-10
Green – Universal grind, stiff to medium flexed ski.
-
Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-20 Tan
– Universal structure, stiff to medium flex skis.
-
Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-30 Salmon
– Universal structure with a light rill, still to medium flex ski.
General recommendations: wind from the
south, warm and humid
-
Temperature in the upper teens-low 20’s, HSF-20
Tan – Universal grind, stiff to medium flexed ski
-
Temperature in the upper 20’s to low 30’s,
HSF 30 Salmon – Universal structure with a rill, still to medium flex ski
-
Temperature at or above freezing, HSF-30 Salmon
– Rill or wet grind, stiff ski
Ski Maintenance: WAX more often. MMS is abrasive
and will wear wax faster than snow. If you do not wax your skis MMS
will eat up your bases.
Structure
If you have one pair
of skis, changing the base structure will be a regular occurrence as snow
type, temperature and conditions change.
1. Polish the base for cold conditions
and be sure to keep the ski surface very smooth.
2. For intermediate conditions, 15 to
25 F, brush the base with a fine metal brush.
3. For conditions just below freezing
use a medium metal brush if conditions are dry, rill if wet conditions
4. Above 35 F, begin with a fine rill
and increase the size of the rill as the temperature increases. Apply structure
in a discontinuous pattern.
If several pairs of skis are available,
try to set up a pair of skis up for each condition. Here stone grinding
will help. Use a fine grind for cold conditions and increase the size of
the grind as the temperature warms.
The ski grinding technician, should be
able to maximize your skis performance by matching the proper stone grind,
with the ski flex, for the snow conditions. For more information
on stonegrinding options, see Stonegrinding Options
for Peak Performance
If you plan on having your skis stone ground,
be sure seek out a shop that specializes in stone grinding
Miscellaneous
Keep both the metal and plastic scrapers
sharp. Use a diamond stone on the metal scraper. Hold the scraper at a
90 degree angle and rotate in a figure eight pattern. Sharpen the plastic
scraper with the Fast Wax Eversharp Scraper Sharpener. It will keep your
scraper perfectly flat as it sharpens the edge.
Select waxes by snow conditions. Many times
with large air temperature swings, the snow will remain constant or lag
significantly behind the air temperature, especially in wooded areas. If
possible, always test your skis on the trail not in the stadium.
Cold, clear or windy conditions or cold
new snow; anticipate abrasive snow and wax for colder than expected temperatures.
Low areas, woods, generally shaded areas;
wax for colder than expected temperatures.
Warm nights, new snow; expect moist snow
and use structure and fluorinated waxes. In addition, overcast conditions
are generally humid, and fluorinated waxes typically work best.
Summary
The main thing to
remember, be consistent with waxing. Use the same process each time and
develop a waxing log the same as a training log, noting structure, temperature,
snow conditions and performance.
Wax your skis often, the more skis are
waxed, the faster the skis become and the better you become at waxing.
Test glide skis often. Use a steep down
hill for high speed evaluation, low angle hills for slow speed
and up-hill for striding. Many times top
racers choose a race ski by the way it climbs.
Most of all, have fun and ski often.
Waxing Iron Temperatures
Temps are a guideline as each iron may vary slightly.
Test the wax on the iron before applying the iron to the ski
| Wax |
Setting Low |
Setting High |
|
Base Prep
HS 40 Yellow
HSLF 40 Yellow
HSF 40 Bronze |
Digital Iron
250 F
Standard Dial Iron
5 to 6 Medium |
Digital Iron 265
F
Standard Dial Iron
5 to 6 Medium |
|
HS 30 Red
HSLF 30 Red
HSF 30 Salmon |
Digital Iron
260 F
Standard Dial Iron
6 to 7 Medium |
Digital Iron 275
F
Standard Dial Iron
6 to 7 Medium |
|
HS 20 Blue
HSLF 20 Blue
HSF 20 Tan |
Digital Iron
265 F
Standard Dial Iron
6 to 8 Medium |
Digital Iron
280 F
Standard Dial Iron
6 to 8 Medium |
|
HS 10 Teal
HSLF 10 Teal
HSF 10 Green
HS - 0 White |
Digital Iron
275 F
Standard Dial Iron
7 to 8.5 Medium |
Digital Iron
285 F
Standard Dial Iron
7 to 8.5 Medium |
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Questions or Comments?
Please contact us at fastwax@visi.com
with
any technical questions or comments on the Fast Wax website.
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